Thursday, June 27, 2013

Governor General's Visit


The Governor General recently came to town.  Up until about a week to the Governor General’s arrival I had no idea what a Governor General (GG) was.  Just in case you’re in the same boat a Governor General is the Queen’s representative.  Each commonwealth country has one and they’re above to Prime Minister… or so that’s my understanding.  Preparations for his visit began weeks in advance, however, I was only around to see/help with the final week leading up to his arrival.  My role was to help Monica with the money.  So around 120,000 Kina passed through my hands as I counted, distributed, and tracked who got how much, when, and what for.  At the same time another event, Council of Elders, was taking place and I did the same thing for that event which had a 200,000 Kina budget.  So basically I around 300,000 Kina passed through my hands in a week.  Pretty cool!

Welcome to Kavieng.
Malagan Masks... The big one on the left was presented to the GG
Mai Mai's performing for the GG as he comes off the plane
Another cultural group performing for the GG


After all the hoop-a-la of preparations the GG finally arrived.  This was all very exciting, but I was far more excited for the arrival of Willie (Bruce and Monica’s son… my pseudo cousin who is more like a brother to me) who just so happened to be on the same flight as the GG.  George (Bruce and Monica’s other son), Glennis (George’s then girlfriend and now fiancĂ©), and Scott (Glennis’s brother) were supposed to be on the same flight but missed it because they were waiting for Will, who, ironically, was on the plane.  So Will, my partner in crime, had arrived, and I was stoked!  I do wish everyone had made the flight together, but I enjoyed my day alone with Will.  That evening was the welcome dinner for the GG which involved lots of long speeches in a warm banquet room.  Will and I were both very grateful for each other’s company that evening.  It was really cool to see the cultural performance, but made for a long evening.  The next morning Will and I attended the guard of honor and an assembly meeting where Bruce summed up what the province has accomplished in the last 5 years.  The guard of honor was cool to watch, but the assembly meeting was eye opening.  For 5 years I’ve heard about what Bruce and Monica have been working on, however, seeing a list of what has been accomplished all at once rather than hearing about each project individually was shocking.  They’ve been really busy in the last 5 years!

Me and Willie going for a walk on the beach
Cultural dances at the GG welcome dinner


More dancing for the GG

Singing the National Anthem and the provincial anthem.
The provincial anthem is super catchy and gets stuck
in my head for hours... sometimes days... after I hear it.

Bruce presenting a brief synopsis of what the provincial
government has accomplished in the last 5 years.



















That afternoon the rest of the troops came in and the next morning bright and early at 5:30am we were off to Namatanai for the opening of the Council of Elders Conference.  The GG made an appearance and opened the conference with the presentation of medals to outstanding members of the community for their time and service to the New Ireland province.  Bruce received a medal.  Woot Woot!  And he so very much deserved it because the man works non-stop.

Photo bomb!!
This man welcomed the GG to the Council of Elders
This was the group with the man above
The GG presenting medals
Bruce receiving his medal
I don't know this man but his outfit is rad
and I thought I'd share it

















































































































Immediately after Bruce got his medal and we shoved some refreshments down our throats we were in the car again and off to Huris with Kuni Bert.  Huris was not our stopping place though, just the location of where the boat was docked that would take us to a group of islands off the coast of Huris called Tanga.  The seas were a bit rough for the first half and smooth sailing for the second, thankfully, because I get seasick and was extremely nauseated.

Scott, Will, Glennis, George, and me.


































Kuni Bert, me, and George on our way to Tanga

The New Ireland province has two districts – Kavieng and Namatanai – and Kuni Bert is the district administrator for Kavieng.  He is also from Tanga and came with us on the trip.  Well, it’s more like we came with him along with the Deputy Governor and the Church Rep for the province.  The following day the GG took a chopper over to open a high school which was the reason for our trip out there.  The first night was chill.  Glennis and I made dinner as we were instructed to by Kuni – rice and bully beef (canned corned beef).  At dinner I shared my giant spider in the bathroom story with everyone.  We had a good laugh then headed off to bed.  Glennis and I walked into our room and guess what is waiting for me on the wall above my bed?  If you guessed anything other than a 7-legged giant huntsman spider you would be wrong.  This time I some how managed to keep the screaming of profanities in my head and only a quiet “Oh my goodness” escaped my lips.  Had the same f-bomb (among other choice words) that uncontrollably leapt from mouth last time made an appearance this time in front of all the big people in the provincial government including the Church Rep, well, that would not have been good.  Deputy Governor came to the rescue and killed the 7-legged spider that was haunting me.  I did feel a little bad about it being killed but not as bad as I would have felt about the loss of a limb (by the way these spiders are not poisonous and I believe not harmful to humans but they still scare the bajesus out of me).   After lots of pep talks I managed to fall asleep.

Classic "Scary White Lady" look

The next morning Glennis and I awoke bright and early at 5am and decided to go for a wander along the beach to watch the sunrise.  Off we went and were soon joined by about 20 village kids.  We played with them, took photos, showed them how to take photos, and then headed back to our guesthouse to get ready for the day.  On our way back I stepped in something squishy along the beach.  I look down to see a pile of crap under my shoe.  There are lots of critters running around and so I asked a teenage girl accompanying us which critter the poop belonged to… dog, pig, etc.  She pointed to the pile and said “human being”.  Uhh, I’m sorry whose poop is that?  Again she pointed and repeated “human being”.  Oh, thanks, yeah, I got it that time.  The first time I was a little unclear but now that you’ve explained a bit more I get it.  In that moment, whilst scraping “human being” poo off my shoe, I realized exactly how needed this sanitation program I’ll be working on is.  People need toilets!  Without toilets where else do you conduct business?  The beach is actually a reasonable place considering the tide will come take it away at some point.  Unfortunately for me, the tide did not come in soon enough.
Sunrise in Tanga

Chillin with some local kids.  They all like to throw up different
hand signs .  They don't mean anything but are
thought to be super cool so everyone does it.

Glennis throwing up some hand signs with locals


Teaching a kid how to work my camera





This little baby was a gem! It had the biggest smile on
its face and giggled while I shook its hand.

At the beginning of the school opening later that day we were offered seats under the “stage” area with the GG.  We turned it down not knowing how many people would be in his party and we’d hate to displace anyone and took our place under a shady tree next to the stage.  We were brought chairs and once the event began we got a special mention, “The provincial planner, Dr. Bruce Harris’ family is sitting to the left of the stage.”  Holla!!  And then the speeches began.  Speeches here are long and when in Pidgin I can only catch some of the things they’re saying.  What do you do after an hour of speeches in the sun that you don’t really understand?  Find a group of kids and start making faces… very entertaining!  One kid saw me and his initial reaction was shock.  Then after I did it again he allowed himself a small chuckle and told a friend.  Once the word had spread, which was quick, I had a group of children roaring in laughter and a group of adults reprimanding the children for their misbehavior.  Do you think this stopped me?  With several set of eyeballs starring my way eagerly awaiting entertainment I couldn’t bare to bring myself to deliver a let down.  So I continued my face making and then showed Glennis my trick for getting in good with the kids.  What can I say, I’m a model citizen.

The GG was greeted by Mai Mais running toward him with spears

Me making faces at kids

Some of the kids I provided afternoon entertainment for


Great place to hold your parrot... on your head

At one point the speeches stop and the planned entertainment began.  A group of traditionally dressed signer/guitar players began their performance.  At this point instead of faces I switched to dancing in my seat.  This inspired laughter from not only the children but a number of adults as well.  One woman, Elizabeth, even encouraged me to get up with the group and as a backup dancer.  I didn’t think Sir Julius (The Governor) would have appreciated that too much so I chose to continue my chair dancing.  Glennis and I did a great “sprinkler” together.  We were completely in sync.  Epic!  Not going to lie, people were impressed with our amazing dance moves.  No really, they were.  At the end of the event Governor and the GG went to take a walk around and music was played over the loud speakers.  Glennis and I continued our chair dancing until Elizabeth decided to give us a traditional dance lesson and we were on our feet doing something that looks similar to the hulu, or it’s supposed to look that way but my hips don’t quite move the way hers did.  This attracted a circle of a couple hundred people roaring with laughter and cheering us on.  At one point a Mai Mai (cultural group) man came over and began dancing with Glennis.  And out of nowhere a woman ran up to us and rubbed sand all over our backs, necks, and faces.  The crowd screamed cheers of delight when she did this.  Me, having no idea what that meant, decided the only plausible explanation for covering me in sand would be a sand fight.  Naturally, I grabbed handfuls of sand and started covering the women who sanded me.  The crowd lost it!  They thought it was hilarious.  Later I found out this is a way to show approval.  Usually people use lime (ground up coral – it’s what they dip their mustard seed in and chew buai with) but when lime is not available they use sand.  Good to know for future reference.  The women were simply displaying their approval.  Thankfully, my ignorance and sanding back did not offend anyone.  While all of this was going on George passed the Governor and the GG as they were walking somewhere and overheard the GG say, “What’s going on over there?  We’re missing all the fun.”  With that being said we were the greatest source of entertainment at this event and after the dancing ceased we were presented with baskets of cow cow (potato/yam) and pig to take with us.  Sadly, we did not taste any of this food because we were on a boat back to Huris and then off again, but not before purchasing two baby eclectus birds for Monica – a girl named Kika and a boy named Marcus.

The scheduled entertainment


Elizabeth... she looks fierce but was a big jokester




Dance lessons



Dancing with a Mai Mai man who joined in on the fun

My hips don't quite move like hers

Sanding in the midst

Post sanding
Kika and Marcus

A gun from WWII left by the Japanese at Huris
A lovely Huris rainbow

Sunset at Huris

Bruce, George, Glennis, Scott, Sir Julius, Monica, Will, and me just before we left Huris

Saturday, June 1, 2013

Namatanai - Part 6 Lots of Little Extras


This is the last of the blogs in this mini series and is, therefore, a bit of a mix of different things I thought worthy of sharing so please forgive the lack of cohesion.

I once learned to drive a stick shift during my junior year of high school in the parking lot during my composition class (yes, the teacher was aware I was having a driving lesson and agreed to let us skip mainly because we didn’t give him any other choice when we walked out of the class and also under the understanding that if we were caught he knew nothing about the situation… oh, and we had to bring him back a Pepsi).  But that was 10 years ago and we never made it out of the parking lot.  Here, everyone drives a stick.  I’m not sure there are any automatics in town… I haven’t seen any that is.  Melanie and Belinda were kind enough to offer to teach me to drive a stick.  Unfortunately for me, driving here requires more thinking than simply shifting gears while maneuvering the clutch.  For starters, instead of sitting on the left side of the car and driving on the right side of the road, it’s reverse so you sit on the right side of the car and drive on the left side of the road. (I still catch myself going to get into the passenger seat and find myself disoriented when I open the door to see the driver’s seat.)  Secondly, though you’re supposed to drive on the left side of the road no one does.  You drive on the side with the fewest pot holes unless another car is coming in which case you veer toward the left side until they pass and then resume driving where ever the road is smoothest.  Thirdly, some of the roads aren’t paved which makes for an offroading adventure. 

Action shot
My first drive I not only managed to NOT stall out which I was very proud of (I saved that for every other driving lesson) I also went offroading and lost control of the car for a brief second as we went sliding down a dirt road only to reclaim control and continue on our way.  It was all very exciting.  In the last 2 weeks of driving lessons I’ve driven on my own 3 times.  Each time I was terrified I’d walk back to the house only to inform them I’d totaled their car, but Melanie and Belinda obviously have more faith in me than I do myself because they handed me the keys and I set out as though I’d been driving a stick shift forever. 

Another action shot
This has also turned me into a 16 year-old newbee driver again.  “We’re out of milk? … I can go get some… No, no of course I don’t mind driving to the store.” Or “You’re going to the hospital? ... Well, I’d be happy to give you a lift … Yes, I am aware the hospital in only 100 yards away, but it’s hot outside and I just thought you might want a ride to avoid the heat.” Any excuse to drive and I’m on it!

One morning I woke up and walked into the kitchen to see breakfast being made.  Eggs and toast.  Nom nom nom.  Only, there was no power so how does one toast bread when there is no power to run a toaster?  Well, if you’re Melanie and Belinda you use a metal-catch-all-thingy-ma-bob (yes, that is its technical name).  Put it over the stove and place the bread on top of it and waahh-laaa… toast.

Breakfast is served... mmmmm
While doing the hausik sale I saw a woman in a lovely meri blouse (meri=woman… woman’s shirt) that I had to have.  I asked where she bought it and she explained that she made it.  I asked if she had more and she directed me toward the section of the market where she sold her meri blouses.  I found another one that I loved, but not the one she was wearing.  After declining to accept the one she was wearing, (yes, she did offer to go home and wash it then give it to me the next day) she offered to make me one from the same fabric.  The next day she delivered the freshly sewn one that I’d requested and the one from the market that I loved and she just so happened to be wearing one she’d made for herself that matched it.  I put mine on and captured this Kodak moment of the two of us matching on film.

Twinsies!

One weekend we decided to come back to Kavieng for a going away party for an expat couple that has been here for years.  The party was held on Nusa Island which is a small island resort with bungalos and a beach bar… it’s pretty impressive!  Nusa Island is filled with adopted animals… dogs, birds, annnnnnd a cus cus.  It was here I encountered my first cus cus and Oh. My. Goodness. they are adorable!  I want one!  In fact, I’d like a pig and a cus cus.  Bruce said yes to the pig but Monica said no… no pig for me.  Then when I asked for a cus cus Monica’s reply was “Yuck!  They stink!” and I took that as another no.  That did not stop me from holding this little guy and dreaming about a baby cus cus of my own.  (For those who don't know, Bruce and Monica are my pseudo aunt and uncle that I'm staying with while here.)
The road back to Kavieng

The baby cus cus having some paw paw
Melanie with the adorable little cus cus

Pre-cus cus Belinda found a giant fishing lure and asked what kind of fish could be caught with it.  Melanie promptly demonstrated by hooking it into my hair.  Naturally, I squirmed like a fish as Belinda reeled me in, though, sadly, there is no photo of this.


Belinda taking her time removing the hook

I stayed overnight at Nusa with Bruce and Monica and spent the next morning hanging out on the beach.  This is the life!
"Welcome to Nusa Island Retreat" is what it says under the bird poo lol

And this is also the end of my Namatanai adventure.  I will be going back again in a couple weeks to help out with another fundraiser… movie night!